November 2010 - Shimanami Express Way

Leaving Imabari; the first bridge on the Shimanami Express way

This year I decided to ride from Onomichi to Matsuyama via the Shimanami Express way. I have ridden the main 80km portion of this ride, Onomichi to Imabari on another occasion but this year I brought my Road Bike all the way from Canada and I wanted to push it a bit more.

The what Express way? -

The Shimanami Express way in Japan links Kyushu with Shikoku by connecting 6 different islands with 8 amazing bridges. It has paved and physically divided bike lanes the entire way. 

It's 80km of fantastic ocean side riding, and you can really let loose. If you go on a weekday, or even your average weekend you won't see many other riders or pedestrians. 

It's just you, your bike, and seagulls. 

Onomichi - Matsuyama -

My ride took me from Onomichi to Matsuyama, I think this is somewhere around the 130km range. The reason I chose this route was due to the fact the Matsuyama is a super cool place with some great hot springs. The idea of riding 130km and then resting in Dogo Onsen, a very famous hot spring with several hundred years of history really appealed to me. It's also a place mentioned in one of my favourite books, Botchan.

The bridges on this route require that you pay a small toll, usually 50 Yen with the exception of the Tatara bridge (100 Yen) and the Kurushima Bridge (200 Yen). I also took one ferry ride at the beginning of the journey which cost 130 Yen. In Canadian Dollars this totals about $7 CDN.

Dogo Onsen

I'll start out with a little information on Onomichi. It's a castle city with a population of about 100,000 people. It's a very foreigner friendly, in fact the local government is trying very hard and unsuccessfully to promote itself as an international cycling destination. There is even a great little high end bike shop (A rare thing in Japan) very close to the downtown core and Train Station. This place saved me on my trip. The owner Takahashi is a bike guy, he used to race and he'll take care of you for a reasonable price. If you find yourself in need of his services do the right thing and run up to the 7-11 and get the man a brew for his work. Most Japanese wont take a tip, but cyclists won't refuse beer.

Takahashi cycle shop
722-0046 Kou Takeshi 2-15-31
TEL: 0848-37-7949

Setting off from Onomichi you must first grab a ferry to Mukaishima. There is a bridge but it's easier to just take a ferry. Once on the island there will be signs posted advertising the route, and honestly these Islands are so small it's hard to get lost for long.

After Mukaishima you cross a bridge to Innoshima. This ride will take you right down by the water, just follow the bike route and you'll have no problems. Just past Innoshima are Setoda and Omishima, both are beautiful places and if the weather is good you will not be disappointed.

One of the many bridges on the route.

The next two Islands Hakatajima and Oshima, it's hard to say more of the same and not make it sound like a bad thing, but the truth is these islands are beautiful & the riding is great. I've done this ride twice. One time I took my time and the second I went all out and I wasn't disappointed either time.

The final city on the expressway is Imabari. To get there you have to cross the largest of the bridges. This is really fun to ride, it's like riding on the golden gate with a lane all to yourself. In Canada we don't have many suspension bridges of this size. I never realized how loud they can be when you get up there. So be prepared, if there is any wind this bridge can resonate like a Harmonica.

Imabari itself is a very small city. It is a good place to spend the night if you are tired from the ride. Most of the Hotels understand the needs of cyclists and will let you bring your bike into the room with you. This is a very uncommon thing in Japan where the notion of expensive bikes is still catching on.

 Instead of staying the night in Imabari however we decided to push on to Matsuyama (Here's the map). This was my favorite part of the ride this year. Just follow Highway #196, it will lead you right to Matsuyama.  It's a very cool little town, a great place to drink. Hotels in Matsuyama are not cheap, it's a touristy place, but it's worth it. Make sure when you are booking that you inform them that you are bringing a Bike so they can make allowances. Most hotspring hotels have rooms with Tatami mat floors, they don't want your bike in the room. Giving them advanced notice will allow them to make arrangements.

Once I arrived and locked my Bike in the Hotel room, I went down to Dogo onsen, paid my respects to Natsume Soseki and soaked in the hot spring.

Finally, there is the matter of Beer. No ride is complete until beer is consumed. Outside of Dogo Onsen there is a Pub that has it's own Botchan microbrew. Its great beer, and a great pub. I ended up meeting a few people who wanted to practice their English over a few pints and we drank for a few hours.

Finally,

I was pretty tired by the time I got into Matsuyama, and I unintentionally cut a guy off. He was driving the big black Minivan with the single digit license plate. I know I apologized for cutting you off at the scene, but due to fatigue my apology may have seemed half assed.

"Thanks for not running into me, I'd have been pissed too. It was entirely my fault. ごめんなさい"

This guy way obviously one of the local toughs, but I have to say ... he handled being cut off better than a lot of North Americans.

If you get the chance please try this route out and provide the City with your feedback.

If you like to read I highly recommend Botchan by Natsume Soseki.


Additional Information -

Here are some links to information about the places visited on this ride.

• Here is the route ... It's mostly correct, well as close as I could get with google maps.
  
• Onomichi City - The website for the Onimichi city government.
  
• My Fickr page - All my photos for those who are interested.

Some people fishing about 20m from the bike path.